July 3, 2023
Morelos Archeological Site
Chalcatzingo, Morelos, Mexico. Photo by author
Chalcatzingo is an ancient Olmec site (1,500 BC) an hour's drive from Tepoztlán, where I live. The Olmecs are the oldest known Mesoamerican civilization. A group of us went on an excursion there. Here is a link to a YouTube video about Olmec culture.
After walking in from the parking lot, we first examined the bas-reliefs carved into the rocks and protected with overhanging roofs. We took a long hike up the mountain. After coming down, and before leaving, we investigated the pyramids at the site.
It turned out to be a very long and tiring but very rewarding day.
Chilcatzingo, Morelos, Mexico. We walk in from the parking lot. Photos by author
Bas-reliefs are carvings in the rock. Chilcatzingo is one of only two Olmec sites having these. They are unique and varied in content. Here is a slide show I made of them:
After looking at the bas-reliefs, we decided to take the trail to climb the mountain.
Chilcatzingo, Morelos, Mexico. We look at the mountain and decide to hike the trail to its summit. Photo by author
On the way from the area with the bas-reliefs to the beginning of the trail, we saw some interesting flora and fauna.
Chilcatzingo, Morelos, Mexico. We saw this incredible amate tree growing over the rock. Photos by author
Chilcatzingo, Morelos, Mexico. Here is a small dragon we met. Photos by author
Climbing the Mountian
One member of our group had climbed the mountain before and guided us on the trail to the summit. It took us a grueling two hours, given the heat and dryness, to get to the top. The trail was not difficult other than this, and the views were spectacular. We witnessed a lot of beautiful nature on the trail.
Chilcatzingo, Morelos, Mexico. First, we climbed on some rocks (upper right) that soon became stairs (lower right). Here (left) we start on the trail. Photos by author
Chilcatzingo, Morelos, Mexico. This reminds me of the saguaro cactus I'd seen in the Sonora desert near Tucson,Az. Photos by author
Chilcatzingo, Morelos, Mexico. The tree on the left has interesting regularly spaced horizontal markings. The shrubs on the right are flowering. Photos by author
Chilcatzingo, Morelos, Mexico. Here are natural patterns of concentric lines and a plethora of colors. Photos by author
Chilcatzingo, Morelos, Mexico. We finally reached the top! Note the beautiful panorama of views (top). There is a cross (lower right), and here is a companion mountain (lower middle). It's nice to take a rest and recharge (lower left). Photos by author
The trip down was by the same trail. Gravity helped, but we were so tired from the heat and struggle to get the to top that the descent was giddy.
Before leaving the site, we checked out the rounded pyramids.
Chilcatzingo, Morelos, Mexico. Pyramid from above, taken on the trail (lower left). Notice the colorful stonework in the other photos. Photos by author
Chilcatzingo, Morelos, Mexico. The rounded shapes differ from most other pyramids I'd seen. Photos by author
Between the two pyramids is a flat rectangular stone structure. I am guessing that it is the place where a speaker might stand to be heard by an audience sitting on the pyramids. When we stood there and clapped, the echo that came back from the pyramids was of a much higher pitch. Did the architects plan that? I think so.
Chilcatzingo, Morelos, Mexico. Notice the center rectangular array of stones between the pyramids. Photo by author
Everyone in our group left Chalcatzingo exhausted but happy for the experience.
FYI: Here is a link to a news article about the recent return of an Olmec artifact to Mexico. It is now on display in Cuernavaca, but will eventually be housed at the Chalcatzingo site.
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I was fascinated by your sharing and enjoyed visiting Chalcatzingo vicariously, without the heat and the strenuous hike.The unusual bas-reliefs are beautiful. I appreciate that you offered this glimpse without asking for anything in return.
Thanks, Lasita or your kind comments. What I ask in return is that readers consider buying my self-published books listed at the end.
Enjoyed this article about what ancient people created. For me, although the creators of the reliefs and pyramids died long ago their spirit is still present.
Thanks, Alice. Your spirit is strong in my life, too.
Thank you very much for the wonderful photos and descriptions. I truly appreciate your blog and sharing.
My pleasure, Delia. And thanks for your nice comment.
WOW, don, your report is very beautiful. Thank you. I have always had a soft spot for the Olmecs, since I was a teen in Germany. They are of an inter-racial origin is it said? Bridging Afrika? Thank you. Thank you.
Thanks, Leonore. Yes, I put a lot of hard work into this one. Sorry, I can't answer your question of origins.
I very much enjoyed your account and the description of the ascent...and descent of the mountain. I have never seen rounded pyramids before. There is obviously some connection between Mexican and Egyptian pyramids... a shared ancient history that would be interesting to explore. A long hot and interesting climb to the top of the mountain.
Glad you enjoyed it, Maria!