Centro Tepoztlán: Part Two
This is a continuation of our monthly series on the neighborhoods of Tepoztlán. In Centro Part One, we covered some of the main streets, stores, and cultural centers. Here in Part Two, we continue by focusing on four contiguous areas of importance in Centro: the Zócalo, Civic Plaza, main church, and the Mercado (the Market).
Zócalo
Every city and town in Mexico has its central park area, called "the Zócalo." This often has a kiosk for staging entertainment.
A few years ago, this area was closed for some months for renovations. A new set of letters was installed.
Trash containers were included. Although their small size makes them nearly useless, they present the right impression.
Sometimes the Zócalo becomes an alternative market, looking different to match the season. Christmas has its tree, along with decorations both natural and electronic.
For Dias de los Muertos (Days of the Dead), there are special altars installed.
On weekends, musicians often perform in the Zócalo.
Civic Plaza
Before the new market was built (see below), the old one was in a large open space just east of the Zócalo, adjacent to it. Every time there was a major festival, this space was cleared of the booths and tarps of the vendors, and reestablished when the fiesta ended. Now it is the Civic Plaza, and has multiple uses. Some food stalls are there, with a stage in the center with bleacher seats. Its a space for political speeches, music and dance entertainment, and general public awareness displays, such as booths displaying various forms of alternative health practices.
During Carnival the dancing Chinelos perform with their bands. In this video, the part that's in the plaza starts at 1:14.
Here is another form of dance involving weaving. it reminds me of the traditional Celtic Maypole Dance.
Mexicans love rock music.
The Main Church
The main church in Tepoztlán has been nicknamed the Ex-convento. It was built in the 15th century by native labor with Dominican overseers. When the Dominican friars initiated construction, they dedicated the church and monastery to the Virgin of the Nativity. At one time it served as a convent, hence it's name.
Its design features a large open atrium, four corner chapels, and original mural paintings blending European and local motifs. An attached museum five has rooms showcasing local history, indigenous life, geography, and crafts.
The courtyard is very large, sometimes hosting rituals for fiestas.
Long ago I attended Christmas opera outside, on the church grounds, composed and performed by local musicians. A manger scene had live animals from the zoo. Someone told me that after it was built, the natives who converted to Christianity, worshiped outside of the church, as this was a part of their original belief system.
NOTE: the sign in the last photo was promoting a short course (cursillo). The image above the sign photo is a parroquia built on the grounds to house services during church repair after an earthquake.
These photos above came from this article on icons and churches which includes this slide show:
The Mercado
August 30, 2024, was the opening of the new Mercado, or market place. Prior to the new market, Tepoztlán had an open-air market of booths covered with tarps located where the Civic Plaza now stands. I liked the old market, but it did present health problems, with no running water, and had improvised electrical connections. Some vendors were quite unhappy to leave, while most adapted to the new one.
In the area including the Civic Plaza are a few vestigial booths, along with other booths near the Zócalo.
The new multi-level space gracefully blends traditional indigenous commerce with refreshing open-air terraces that look out onto the breathtaking cliffs of the El Tepozteco mountains.
Here are some of the spaces where food to prepare at home is sold--produce, pork products, and even flowers:
For more information on the new market, go to this page. For additional information on it and on local alternative markets, see this article, from which these images were borrowed. The article also shows some of the spaces in the new market where you can sit and eat prepared food.
I hope you've enjoyed our tour of Centro and will continue reading the upcoming articles. Even better--come visit for a direct experience. We'll help you and show you around.
